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How to Grow Rhubarb Plants: The Complete Guide

Botanical Name
Rheum rhabarbarum
Plant Type
Vegetable
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Part Sun
Soil pH
Neutral to Slightly Alkaline
Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Hardiness Zone
3
4
5
6
7
8

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Rhubarb

Catherine Boeckmann
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What grows for 10 years or more, suffers from almost no pests, and is refreshingly easy to care for? It’s rhubarb! This perennial vegetable has tart-flavored ruby or green stems used to make pies, crumbles, cakes, jams, and sauces. Learn how to plant, grow, and pick rhubarb correctly.

About Rhubarb

Rhubarb originally came from Asia. It was brought to Europe in the 1600s and to America shortly thereafter. It thrives in areas with a cooler climate, making it popular in northern gardens. Rhubarb is easy to grow but needs a dormancy period to thrive and produce an abundance of huge stalks. Rhubarb does best where the average temperature falls below 40ºF (4°C) in the winter and below 75ºF (24°C) in the summer.

The stalks are the only edible part of the rhubarb plant. These have a rich, tart flavor when cooked. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are toxic. They contain an irritant called oxalic acid, so be sure that they are not ingested.

What’s lovely about rhubarb is that it’s a perennial: A healthy plant will remain productive for 10 years or more. For that reason, rhubarb should be planted in its own space in any corner of the garden where it can grow undisturbed. Rhubarb grows well in soil amended with plenty of well-rotted manure or compost; this has inspired some gardeners to plant it near their compost piles!

With its ruby or green stems and umbrella-like leaves, rhubarb also adds height and structure to your garden, along with a splash of gorgeous color that will return year in and year out. 

Read Next

Planting

Rhubarb grows best in full sun but will tolerate partial shade.

Choose a site with soil that is well-draining and fertile. Good drainage is essential, as rhubarb will rot if kept too wet. Mix compost, rotted manure, or anything high in organic matter into the soil. Rhubarb plants are heavy feeders and need this organic matter. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.

Rhubarb gets big! It can grow to 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. Make sure you choose a site where it won’t be crowded. 

When to Plant Rhubarb

  • Rhubarb can be planted in late fall or early spring.
    • Plant rhubarb crowns after dormancy have set in in the fall, and you’ll have rhubarb cropping in the spring!
    • In spring, plant crowns when the soil is workable, when the roots are still dormant, and before growth begins (or as plants are just beginning to leaf out). If you have a temperature gauge, soil temperature should be 50°F minimum.

Spacing for Rhubarb

How to Plant Rhubarb

  • Plant 1-year-old rhubarb crowns, which you can find at a garden center, or nursery, or order online. Plants will be sold as bare-rooted specimens or young plants already growing in pots, ready for transplanting. (Rhubarb can be grown from seed, but this is not recommended.)
  • Before planting, eliminate all perennial weeds in the planting site.
  • Dig large, bushel-basket-size holes.
  • Space rhubarb plants about 2 to 4 feet apart and 3 to 4 feet between rows.
  • Plant crowns so the eyes are about 2 inches below the soil surface with buds facing up.
  • Water well at the time of planting.

Check out this video to learn more about how to plant rhubarb:

Growing

Overcrowding is a common problem with rhubarb and can lead to subpar growth. Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years. Divide when plants are dormant in early spring (or late fall). Divisions should have at least one large bud on them. 

  • Mulch generously with a heavy layer of straw to retain moisture and discourage weeds.
  • Water your plant well and consistently. Rhubarb needs sufficient moisture, especially during the hot, dry summer days.
  • Remove seed stalks as soon as they appear, as they will only drain energy from the plant that could be used to produce stalks or roots.
  • Each spring, apply a light sprinkling of a fertilizer (10-10-10) when the ground is thawing or has just thawed. See your local frost dates.
  • In the fall, remove all plant debris. Once your ground freezes, it’s best to cover rhubarb with 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch, preferably well-rotted compost. By adding nitrogen to the soil, you’re preparing the rhubarb plants for a good spring season.

Rhubarb leaf

Varieties

These common varieties have attractive red stalks and excellent growers: 

  • ‘Canada Red’
  • ‘Crimson Red’
  • ‘MacDonald’
  • ‘Valentine’

In addition to the previous four, there is a reliable, green-stalked cultivar named:

  • ‘Victoria’

Harvesting

Do NOT harvest any stalks during the first growing season. Harvest sparingly in the second year. This allows your plants to become properly established.

  • After a plant’s third year, the harvest period (rhubarb season!) runs 8 to 10 weeks long, lasting through mid-summer.
  • Harvest stalks when they are 12 to 18 inches long and at least 3/4-inch in diameter. If the stalks become thin, stop harvesting; the plant’s food reserves are low.
  • Grab the base of the stalk and pull it away from the plant with a gentle twist. If this doesn’t work, you can cut the stalk at the base with a sharp knife. To prevent the spread of disease, be sure to sanitize the knife before cutting. Discard the leaves.
  • Always leave at least two stalks per plant to ensure continued production. You may have a bountiful harvest for well over 10 years without replacing your rhubarb plants.
  • It was once believed that the entire rhubarb plant became toxic as summer temperatures rose. This isn’t true, although summer-harvested stalks usually have a tougher texture than those picked in the spring. Nevertheless, after midsummer (July), it’s best to leave stalks on the plant to allow them to gather energy for next year’s growth.

How to Store Rhubarb

Cut the rhubarb stalks and refrigerate in a covered container. Or, tightly wrap stalks in plastic or aluminum foil and refrigerate. Rhubarb can be kept fresh in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks.

Cut rhubarb stalks into pieces, place them in a covered container or zip-type plastic bag, and put them in the freezer. Frozen rhubarb will last about a year.

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Pests/Diseases

Pests and diseases are rarely an issue with rhubarb, but they may be affected by the following problems.

Rhubarb Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
Botrytis (gray mold)FungusVaries; yellow/ brown/gray spots with water-soaked margins on leaves/flowers; gray mold; buds remain closed; stem lesions; wilt/rot; scorched appearance (“fire”) in some plantsDestroy infected parts/severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; good air circulation/sunlight; avoid overhead watering; prevent plant stress/injury; weed; rotation
Fungal leaf spotFungusVaries; leaf spots on lower leaves enlarge and turn brown/black; fuzzy growth or pustules in lesions; disease progresses upward; leaves dieDestroy infected leaves/ severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; resistant varieties; good air circulation; avoid overhead watering
Phytophthora crown and root rotOomyceteLeaves discolor/ wilt; dieback; oozing cankers near base; reddish brown discoloration of inner bark/wood; roots rot; plants slow-growing/stunted/dieDestroy infected plants and surrounding soil (do
not compost); prune out branch cankers; remove plant debris regularly; plant resistant varieties; prevent plant stress/injury; provide good drainage/do not overwater
Rhubarb curculioInsectWeevil-like beetle that bores into stalks/crowns; notches on stalks/leaves; holes in stalks leak sap; plants wilt/decayHandpick adults (appear in mid-May); destroy nearby host plants (sunflowers, thistle, dock) in mid-summer (July)
Slugs/snailsMolluskIrregular holes in leaves; slimy secretion on plants/soil; young stems “disappear”Handpick; avoid thick bark mulch; use copper plant collars; avoid overhead watering; lay boards on soil in evening, in morning lift and dispose of pests in hot, soapy water; drown in deep container of 1/2 inch of beer or of sugar water and yeast sunk to ground level; apply 1-inch-wide strip of diatomaceous earth

Wit and Wisdom

Rhubarb has many other uses, from medicinal to cosmetic. See how to naturally lighten your hair with rhubarb. 

Recipes

Apple-Rhubarb Crunch
Rhubarb Chutney Recipe
Rhubarb Nut Bread
Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie
Blueberry-Rhubarb Jam
Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake

Cooking Notes

Check out our list of best rhubarb recipes to put your fresh rhubarb to good use! Plus, learn how to make a rhubarb tonic.

Vegetables
About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
 

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Comments

Dear Almanac staff, I planted the rhubarb a month or more earlier than the yellowing... so I don't think it would have been a transplanting related issue. I'll take the other issues into consideration. THanks so much. I know it doesn't like being transplanted... but if it's in a barrel container, can I move the container itself or would that stress it out more?

Thanks

Steve

Norma (not verified)

7 years 10 months ago

We have just moved to a condo where I have brought my pot with rhubarb. I have chives & rosemary around the rhubarb plant. We have always had rhubarb in a pot to protect it from the animals like deer but now something is eating the leaves! Sprayed the leaves with water & soap. What could be eating my rhubarb? The plant is the strawberry variety.

How large is the damage? If the damage is in large sections, then it might be an animal (although the leaves are toxic). If the holes are ragged and fairly big, check for a trail of slime—as slugs sometimes like to eat rhubarb leaves. Tiny to moderate holes in the leaves could be beetles, such as the Japanese beetle. Caterpillars, such as the European corn borer and imported cabbageworm, may sometimes attack leaves or stalks. Other pests, such as aphids or rhubarb curculio, make punctures rather than chewing holes. Look underneath the leaves, and at the base of plants in the soil, for any lurking pest. For slug control, see: http://www.almanac.com/pest/slugs  Good luck!

Theresa (not verified)

7 years 10 months ago

Hi! I am new to growing rhubarb and I planted my stalks last year in spring in north east Pennsylvania. I have not harvested yet and it's June. My plants have 1-3 stalks per plant and are almost 5ft tall.... the leaves are maybe the size of my hand but there are tons of "branches" with leaves. Did I ruin my rhubarb? When do I harvest? Thanks for your help!! I have pictures of it...

Theresa (not verified)

7 years 10 months ago

It's a stupid weed and I'm an idiot.... but my butt hole neighbor lets his trees grow over the fence and hid my plant and it's the right color to be rhubarb. I feel so dumb!!! Sorry. I really feel stupid now.

Linn (not verified)

7 years 9 months ago

You do know that anything / tree branch that falls over the property line is yours to cut off. You just need to be careful that it doesn't kill the tree.

John Murray (not verified)

7 years 10 months ago

We have a rhubarb patch that is 70 or ,80 years old and still growing good except as the weather gets warmer there are worms that go up in the stalls and come out the side and leave a jelly like substance. No one else I know has this problem. Do you know anything about this?

This might be a pest called the common stalk borer (Papaipema nebris). Eggs are laid on grasses and weeds in late summer and fall by a moth; in spring, the eggs hatch and larvae feed on grasses and weeds and other plants, sometimes moving over to rhubarb patches, as well as corn etc. Larvae are very active and move about between plants. They pupate in the soil around July and emerge as moths around August. Clear out any weeds surrounding your patch, and keep borders neat and lawn trimmed nearby to discourage them. To be sure of the pest ID, you might take a sample of the larva and photo of damage to your county’s Cooperative Extension service. For contact information, see http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services

Chloe Frooninckx (not verified)

7 years 10 months ago

I live in Oklahoma and have finally got several good rhubarb plants that are producing well. However, the stalks are tough and coarse. I do amend the soil, but not quite as recommended. Any suggestions or hope?

Barb L (not verified)

7 years 10 months ago

Just moved into a new house in the fall of 2016. This spring (2017) I noticed what appears to be beautiful pink "tubors" emerging from the ground. A friend told me it was rhubarb. There is now a plant with huge leaves growing. I have read all the comments going back to 2015 and am still at a loss as what to do. I have no idea when it was planted. What do I look for. Should I assume this is the first spring for this plant? My home was a foreclosure so I am not able to ask the previous owner. Help!