Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Raspberries
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Planting
Raspberries grow best in a sunny location, but unlike many fruits, they will also grow successfully in a partially shaded spot. However, the more sun, the more fruit!
The planting site should have rich and well-drained soil, great air circulation, and shelter from the wind. Avoid a wet and windy area, as raspberries do not like to stand in water or totally dry out.
Every year, feed your raspberry plants with a couple of inches of compost or aged manure; dig it into the soil a couple of weeks before planting (A good rate is about 3 1/2 cubic feet of compost per 100 square feet).
Plant your berries far from wild-growing berries. Otherwise, you risk spreading wild pests and diseases to your cultivated berry plants.
When to Plant Raspberries
- Start with one-year-old raspberry canes from a reputable nursery. Plant the early spring once the ground thaws out and can be worked (See your local frost dates).
- In mild areas, you could also plant in late autumn to give the plants a head start.
- Plant potted transplants in the spring after the threat of frost has passed.
How to Plant Raspberries
- Before planting, soak the roots for an hour or two.
- Dig a hole that is roomy enough for the roots to spread. If you’re planting multiple bushes, it’s easiest to dig a trench.
- Whether you’re planting bare-root or potted plants, keep the crown of the plant 1 or 2 inches above the ground.
- Canes should be spaced 18 inches apart, with about four feet between rows.
- Fill the soil back in, and tamp it down with your foot.
- Once the canes are planted, cut them down to 9 inches tall to encourage new growth. (Yes, it will look like a broken branch sticking out of the ground!)
- Depending on your plant variety, you may need to fashion a support to hold up canes. Many grow to head height.
- A trellis or a fence are good options. If you have a row, drive in two six-foot posts at the end of the row and stretch galvanized wire between the posts. Summer-fruiting raspberries need three horizontal wires, and the fall types could do with two wires.
Check out this video to learn how to plant raspberries.
Growing
- Mulching is important throughout the season to conserve moisture and suffocate weeds. Keep a thick layer of mulch surrounding plants at all times.
- Water one inch per week from spring until after harvest. Regular watering is better than infrequent deep soaking.
- Keep your raspberry bushes tidy by digging up any “suckers” or canes that grow well away from the rows; if you don’t dig them up, they’ll draw nutrients away, and you’ll have fewer berries next year.
- If you wish, you can replant the suckers, and you’ll have new plants! Dig them up, set them in a fresh area of prepared ground, and water them after planting.
How to Prune Raspberries
Prune summer-fruiting raspberries immediately after you’re done picking! Cut only the canes that produced berries back down to the ground.
(Remember, this plant produces berries on two-year-old canes while one-year-old canes grow right beside them. You shouldn’t have trouble telling which is which: the older canes have brown stems, and the young ones are still green. Prune only the older ones, the ones that have finished their fruitful year.)
Tie the remaining canes to the supporting wires with garden string. There should not be any more than one cane every four inches of wire, so cut down additional canes.
Ever-bearing or fall-bearing raspberries
- This is easy. Just cut all canes back to the ground in late winter before growth begins in the spring. They give fruit on canes that are in their first year of growth, after which there is no reason to keep them. Mow them to the ground or use pruning shears for a small patch.
- Clean up all debris—diseases and pests overwinter.
- Pruning is only required during the growing season if you want to keep a uniform order. Dig or pull up new canes that grow well away from the rows. If your raspberry canes are disease-free you can transplant them to raise more plants.
Note: The above assumes you are harvesting a fall crop. To get both fall and following summer crop, do not remove the primocanes that produced the fall crop. Prune them back in spring to about 12 inches above the support, or to the last visible node that had fruit, cutting off the dead tips.
There are many, many raspberry varieties available today—and each one is unique! Ask your local garden center or cooperative extension service which raspberry varieties are best suited for your area. Here are a few to get you started:
- ‘Canby’: red berries; summer-bearing; nearly thornless; recommended for New England, Upper Great Lakes, and Northwest
- ‘Heritage’: red berries; ever-bearing; recommended for the Mid-Atlantic and Ohio Valley
- ‘Plainsman’: red berries; ever-bearing; does well in higher altitudes (the Rockies and High Plains)
- ‘Fallgold’: yellow berries; ever-bearing; recommended for the Upper Midwest and Canada
- ‘Double Gold’: yellow berries tinged with peach; ever-bearing; better for warmer areas, as the fall crop can be quite late
- ‘Royalty’: purple berries; summer-bearing; better for warmer areas
- ‘Jewel’: black berries; summer-bearing; disease-resistant, and great for warmer areas
- ‘Black Hawk’: black berries; summer-bearing; heat and drought tolerant
Tired of raspberries? Try your hand at growing blackberries, blueberries, or strawberries instead!
Harvesting
- All varieties will begin to produce fruit in their second season. In some cases, ever-bearers may bear small berries in their first autumn.
- In early summer, berries will ripen over about 2 weeks. You will need to pick berries every couple of days!
- Try to harvest berries on a sunny day when they are dry.
- Gently pull raspberries away from their central plug once they’re richly colored all over. They should come away easily. Don’t tug too hard on your raspberries when picking. A ripe raspberry will leave the vine willingly.
How to Store Raspberries
- Raspberries won’t keep for long, so enjoy them soon after picking them!
- They can be kept refrigerated for about five days. Don’t wash the berries after picking unless you’re going to eat them straight away. They will grow moldy and mushy if not kept dry in storage. If you do need to wash them, let them air dry completely before storing them.
- Raspberries can be frozen! As with freezing blueberries, make a single layer of berries on a cookie sheet. When frozen, place into airtight bags. Use on waffles, in cereal, or whenever you need a refreshing, healthy snack!
Cooking Notes
Fresh raspberries are wonderful in cereals or paired with a dollop of Greek-style yogurt or cream and an indulgent drizzle of maple syrup.
Freeze excess berries to use in smoothies and desserts, or make them into raspberry jam.
If the fruit is to be made into preserves, it should be done with fruit that’s as fresh as possible.
Catherine Boeckmann
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Hello,
This spring will be the third year for my raspberry plant. It's summer-bearing and produced heavily last summer. It will outgrow the garden this year... I'm thinking about digging up the entire plant, dividing it into several plants, and relocating them to another area with more space. If I do, and keep the new canes from last summer, will they produce fruit this spring? Or will the trauma of the move prevent fruiting this year regardless of the existing canes?
Thank you
You are right to wonder about the fruiting performance of newly transplanted canes. It is likely they will put most of their energy into getting established (root production). You may see a bit of fruiting, but be prepared for that not being the case. Perhaps you could transplant the older canes this spring, leaving the two-year canes to fruit, then move then next spring … just a thought!
Hi. I have a lot of pale pale apricot raspberries that are still ripening. We will have three nights in the 20's this week, and I am wondering if I cut those branches and bring them inside in a vase, will they finish ripening inside? Or, will they survive the freeze? I live in South Lake Tahoe
Hmm. Good question! I’m not a botanist, but here are my thoughts. Raspberries do not ripen once picked. If the berries were still attached on a branch, but that branch did not have access to nutrients etc. from the main plant, it is unclear whether they would indeed continue to ripen. Would the branch have enough of what the berries needed to mature? It would be a good experiment! You might try a few branches, but otherwise, you can try covering your bushes with garden frost blankets overnight, and perhaps protect the base with a thick layer of straw. Good luck!
If the canes don't produce till 2 years old and you save the one year old canes, why would you mow them all down at the end of the season??
Hi Brian,
If you want to have two crops (a light crop in early June and an heavier crop in September), leave 1st-year canes unpruned. For a fall crop only, mow all canes down to 2 to 3 inches after the fall harvest.
I live in an area that gets as hot as 95F now a days and as cold as freezing with a little snow in the winter. I want to know if it is OK to plant Raspberry plants in the fall, like October.
Lesley
It sounds like you are in a USDA Plant Hardiness Zone that is more southern. To learn about USDA hardiness zones, see: http://www.almanac.com/content/plant-hardiness-zones
Although in general raspberries do best in cooler climes, their growth slowing in high summer heat, there are some that offer heat tolerance and have a less of a chilling requirement in winter. Check with your local nursery about cultivars appropriate for your area. Heat-tolerant cultivars include ‘Bababerry’, ‘Dorman Red’, and ‘Oregon 1030’.
Most sources say that early spring (when the plants are still dormant), is the best time to plant raspberries. However, you can plant them in fall (again, when plants are dormant) before the ground freezes, or in the South, in late winter.
We have a thornless raspberry variety. Do they need cutting in fall to the ground? I am disappointed that they are not producing. We have not cut them so they are real tall around 6-7 feet tall.
