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How to Grow a Lilac Bush

Huge blooms, wonderful scent.

Photo Credit
Wally Patrick
Botanical Name
Syringa spp.
Plant Type
Shrubs and Bushes
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Part Sun
Soil pH
Neutral to Slightly Alkaline
Bloom Time
Spring
Summer
Flower Color
Blue
Pink
Purple
Red
White
Yellow
Hardiness Zone
2
3
4
5
6
7
Special Features
Attracts Butterflies

Planting, Growing, and Pruning Lilacs

Catherine Boeckmann
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Lilacs truly smell like spring! Lilacs are among the most carefree spring-flowering shrubs and provide a sweet, haunting fragrance, too! Learn how to plant, grow, and prune your lilacs.

Lilacs, said to symbolize the joy of youth and associated with spring’s awakening, are hardy, easy to grow, and low-maintenance. Although they can reach heights of 5 to 15 feet (or more), depending on the variety, the ideal lilac shrub produces flowers at eye level—all the better to enjoy their sweet fragrance.

About Lilacs

The common lilac, Syringa vulgaris, is well-loved for its toughness, reliability, and fragrance. In fact, lilacs are so tough that they can grow for 100+ years, often outliving the homes they were planted around. The fragrant flowers are good for cutting and are attractive to butterflies.

While the blooms are usually lilac/purple in color (from very pale to very dark), there are also lilac varieties in white and cream and even pink and yellow. Individual flowers can be single or double.

In northern states, lilacs bloom for about two weeks from mid-to-late spring. However, there are early-, mid-, and late-season lilacs, which, when grown together, ensure a steady bloom for at least six weeks.

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Planting

Lilacs thrive in fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil (at a pH near 7.0). If your soil is in poor condition, mix in compost to enrich it. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing the soil for planting.) Choose or prepare a site that drains well. Poor drainage or pooling water can cause “wet feet,” potentially leading to root rot, stunted growth, and/or failure to flower. Test soil drainage by digging a hole 8 inches in diameter and 12 inches deep. Fill it with water; if it does not drain within an hour, choose another spot.

For the best blooms, lilacs should be planted in full sun, which is defined as being at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. Given less, they will not flower as well. 

When to Plant Lilacs

  • Like most shrubs, lilacs can be planted in either spring or fall, although the latter is preferred.

How to Plant Lilacs

  • If you’re lucky, a friend will give you a sucker, or offshoot, of the root system of one of their plants. The sucker will look pathetic at first, but dig a hole, backfill it with soil, and stick the sucker in. Then, water and wait. In 4 or 5 years, you’ll be rewarded with huge, fragrant blossoms.
  • Transplanting nursery-bought lilacs is also easy. If it’s container-grown, spread out the roots as you settle the plant into the ground; if it’s balled or burlapped, gently remove the covering and any rope before planting. Set the plant 2 or 3 inches deeper than it grew in the nursery, and work topsoil in around the roots—water in. Then, fill in the hole with more topsoil.
  • Space multiple lilac bushes 5 to 15 feet apart, depending on the variety.

Growing

  • Each spring, apply a layer of compost under the plant, followed by mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.
  • Water during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
  • Lilacs won’t bloom if they’re overfertilized. They can handle a handful of 10-10-10 in late winter, but no more.
  • After your lilac bush has finished blooming, spread some lime and well-rotted manure around the base. Trim the bush to shape it and remove suckers at the same time.

How to Prune Lilacs: Pruning Lilacs

  • Lilacs bloom on old wood, so it’s critical to prune in the spring right after they bloom. If you prune later in the summer, you may be removing the wood. Note: If your lilac flower clusters are getting smaller over a few years, it’s time to prune!
  • Every year after bloom, remove any dead wood. Prune out the oldest canes (down to the ground). Remove the small suckers. Cut back weak branches to a strong shoot. Cut back tall canes to eye height.
  • The ideal lilac shrub has about 10 canes. If your lilac is old and in really bad shape, remove one-third of the oldest canes (down to the ground) in year one, half of the remaining old wood in year two, and the rest of the old wood in year three. Another option for old lilacs is to chop the whole thing back to about 6 or 8 inches high. It sounds drastic, but lilacs are very hardy. The downside to this option is that it takes a few years to grow back. The upside is less work and more reward, as the lilac will grow back, bursting with blooms.
  • It must be recognized that severe pruning results in the loss of blooms for one to three years. For these reasons, a wise pruning program aims to avoid severe and drastic cuts by giving the bushes annual attention.
  • Good Sucker Sense: Gertrude Jekyll, the 19th-century no-nonsense English horticulturist (1843– 1932), advocated a strenuous exercise: “When taking away suckers … it is better to tear them out than to cut them off. A cut, however close, leaves a base from which they may always spring again, but if pulled or wrenched out, they bring away with them the swollen base.”
Varieties

For early flowers, try Syringa x hyacinthiflora hybrids; they bloom 7 to 10 days before S. vulgaris. It’s fragrant blooms attract butterflies and hummingbirds.

The most common and fragrant lilacs are of the Syringa vulgaris variety:

  • Try ‘Charles Joly’, a double magenta flower, an early bloomer.
  • Mid-season lilacs include ‘Monge’, a dark reddish purple, and ‘Firmament’, a fine blue.
  • Late-season beauties include ‘Miss Canada’, a reddishpink, and ‘Donald Wyman’, a pink-purple flower.

Uncommon types/varieties include … 

  • S. x ‘Penda’ Bloomerang Purple: flowers in spring, pauses, then flowers again from midsummer through fall
  • Although common lilacs love cold weather, a few thrive as far south as Zone 8, including cutleaf hybrid S. x laciniata, with fragrant, pale lavender flowers, and S. pubescens ssp. patula ‘Miss Kim,’ with pale, lilac-blue blooms that fade to white.

Small Lilacs
For gardeners, especially those in urban spaces, who just don’t have the room for the traditional larger lilac, there are compact varieties! They’ll even grow in a container on your patio or balcony.

  • ‘Baby Kim’ grows only 2 to 3 feet high (and 3 feet wide) in a nicely rounded shape with purple flowers that attract butterflies. Extended hardiness from Zones 3 to 8.
  • ‘Little Lady’ (Syringa x) is a compact lilac that matures to 4 to 5 feet tall and wide with dark pink buds that open to lilac-pink flowers. Hardy in Zones 2 to 7.
  • ‘New Age Lavender’ and ‘New Age White’ (Syringa vulgaris) are super-compact, growing from 4 to 5 feet tall and wide, and bred for mildew resistance. Their fragrant flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Hardy to Zone 4.

See more lilac varieties!

Gardening Products

Pests/Diseases

  • Prone to attack by slugs and snails.
  • Powdery white mildew may appear after a summer of hot, humid weather. It may be unsightly, but it does no harm. Ignore it.

Wit and Wisdom

  • To improve the flowering of lilacs, keep the grass from growing around them. A 16- to 24-inch circle of landscape cloth placed around the bushes and covered with bark or stone will keep the grass down.
  • Force a winter bouquet from cut branches of lilac. Bruise the cut ends and set them in water. Spray the branches frequently. Keep them in a cool place until they bloom, then move to a warmer area for display.
  • Poet Walt Whitman thought of lilacs when Abraham Lincoln died: 
    ”When lilacs last in the dooryard bloom’d … I mourn’d, and yet shall mourn with ever-returning spring.”
  • Lilacs supposedly symbolize the joy of youth. Learn about more flower symbolism here.
  • The lilac belongs to the olive family, Oleaceae.
  • Lilacs are the state flower of New Hampshire.

Cooking Notes

Lilac flowers are edible, but flavor varies among cultivars, from no flavor to “green” and lemony flavors. Gather insect- and disease-free blooms early in the day. Avoid any that are unopened or past their peak. Wash the flowers gently in cool water. Pat them dry and refrigerate until ready to use.

Consider making candied lilac flowerets for a special cake decoration: Separate the individual flowers. Using tweezers, dip each one into a beaten egg white, reconstituted egg white powder, or packaged egg whites. Then, dip the flower in finely granulated sugar. Set it aside to dry before placing it on a cake.

Shrubs and Trees
About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
 

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Comments

Best time to plant suckers is before buds emerge in the spring or after the leaves have dropped from the shrub in fall. Find a sucker ideally 2 to 3 foot tall. With a spade dig down around the sucker. You’ll find a connecting root leading back to the main stem. Cut this root off just outside of the sucker’s root ball. Remove the sucker with as many roots as possible and plant it in a big pot with potting soil or directly in the ground. Water well.

Cindy Pierce (not verified)

8 years 11 months ago

I live in Utah. I have several Miss Kim lilacs that are about 10 years old. For the past few years, they have been having fewer and fewer leaves. They are all heavily blossoming this spring, but only one has many leaves. The one with the most blossoms has the fewest leaves. What can I do? The lilacs in another part of the yard are growing well and leafy.

Jenn (not verified)

8 years 11 months ago

I live in South Eastern part of Colorado..I just wondering what's best lilac shrub or tree to get?

Rena (not verified)

8 years 11 months ago

Err moved into our new home last year and there are three well established lilac trees but I don't know how old they are. I see tips on pruning, but do the dead blooms need to be cut also? It didn't look like it had been done before we moved in, and they bloomed fine this year.

Hi Rena,

It helps the tree to remove the dead blooms every year. When you remove the blooms the tree doesn’t need to use its energy to produce seeds. The faded blooms are easy to snap off.

Becky (not verified)

8 years 11 months ago

I have shrub lilacs that do not bloom, about 5 years old. They are shaded and don't get 6 hours of sunlight daily. I would like to move them. Do they have a large root? Or could I cut them down and try to grow new plants from the suckers? I'm not sure how to do that. Do I pull the suckers up and hope to get some roots? Thanks

Julie Timson (not verified)

8 years 11 months ago

How do the roots grow? How far away should I keep it away from my septic? Thank you

Lilac roots are shallow and spread about one and half times the width of the bush. If you plant the lilac about 8 feet from your septic system you should be OK.

Debra Potts (not verified)

8 years 11 months ago

I live in the Chicago suburbs. We bought a Miss Kim at a nursery last May and planted it with the soil that they suggested. We followed all directions with the hole size etc.. After planting we had a very heavy rain. It is in full sun. We bought a moisture tester and I tested every week 4 to 6 inches down, and even further, and it always showed that it was wet (for weeks). Basically, the rain we received last spring allowed us to never have to water. When the blooms dried out, I cut them off. In Midsummer all the leaves shriveled up and turned brown. We also planted two hydrangeas nearby and they did the same thing. Now this spring, all three plants or dried up and just sticks. My hydrangeas are growing new leaves at the base of the plant as well as a couple teeny leaves coming out of the branches. However my lilacs show no sign of greenery, leaves, or any other growth. I scraped on a few branches and found no green. I am assuming it's dead, but I'm fearful of planting another lilac in this location. Should I leave it in the ground and wait to see? Do you think it was just the rain that flooded it out right after planting, and I should take another chance? This is the only area in my small yard for a lilac. As I noted, it does get full sun all day in this location. I really don't know what to do, as I have always loved lilacs, and really want to have one. Is there maybe a better, hardier type of lilac I could plant, and should I wait until fall to plant a new one, versus the spring? Do the nurseries even sell them in the fall? Thanks so much for your help

Our guess is that the heavy rain and wet soil killed your lilac. Please see our planting and care sections at the top of this page. You may need to amend the soil with organic matter (compost or aged manure) to make it drain better. Lilacs can be planted in the spring or fall. See link below for some lilac varieties to grow in your region.

www.chicagobotanic.org/plantinfo/lilacs