Looking for a plant that’s as captivating as it is low-maintenance? Meet the agave, a stunning succulent known for its dramatic, sculptural leaves and remarkable adaptability.
Native to arid climates, agave plants are masters of thriving in tough conditions, making them a favorite for gardeners and plant enthusiasts alike.
In this care guide, you’ll learn everything you need to keep your succulent thriving, from choosing the perfect variety to their watering, sunlight, and soil needs.
Let’s explore the secrets to growing these showstoppers and discover why agave deserves a place in your plant collection.
What is an Agave Plant?
Agave, sometimes known as a century plant, is a long-lived desert denizen whose stunningly exotic species number more than 200. Each species has a lot of variety; most have large, pointy-tipped leaves ranging in size depending on the species.
Some are palm-sized, others can grow over 20 feet tall by the time they flower!
Its flowers bloom only once in its lifetime, from their 6th to 30th year, and indicate that the plant’s end is near.
The mast (or stalk or stem) rises up to 20 feet tall, the flowers bloom, and in most cases, the plant then dies. Plants that go through this process are termed “monocarpic.” At this point, next-generation offshoots, aka “pups,” can be replanted to start the growing cycle anew.
Agave, native to Mexico and the southwestern United States and often mistaken for yucca, produces twisting, speared, splayed, and spiking leaves that set a spectacular scene. After becoming established, agaves thrive on neglect.
Wear protective gloves when handling agave, and be aware that because its leaf tips are mildly toxic, they should be cut off in landscapes frequented by children.
Most people choose to buy pre-established plants rather than start from seed, but it’s easy enough to grow from seed if you’d rather!
Where To Grow
Agaves are evergreen perennials winter-hardy in Zones 5 to 11, depending on the cultivar; they can be treated as annuals or overwintered elsewhere.
They are hardy plants but should be grown in environments that mimic their native habitat of arid and semi-arid regions. They need well-draining soil, plenty of full sun, and minimal rainfall. Check out the care requirements section below for more detail on where exactly to plant them.
The best time to plant agave is in the spring or early fall, so bear this in mind when you get started.
How To Plant From Seed
Fill a seed pot or shallow container with a seed-starting mix and scatter the agave seeds on top. Some species require covering, and others don’t, so make sure you find out what your specific species needs.
Lightly water the seed-starting mix and cover it with plastic wrap.
Place the seed pot in a warm spot (around 70°F) in bright indirect sunlight.
When the seedling start to appear after a few weeks, remove the plastic wrap and gradually introduce the plant to the outdoors a few hours each day before you transplant it.
How to Transplant Your Agave
The following advice applies to buying a shop-bought agave that needs repotting, as it does to transplanting your seedlings.
If possible, choose an unglazed pot with plenty of drainage holes to allow excess moisture to evaporate.
Fill the pot with a container mixture made from equal parts potting mix, compost, gravel, pumice, or sand. Alternately, use a cactus mix.
Agaves, being succulents, have shallow root systems, so they don’t need a huge amount of soil. Remove the seedling or plant from the original pot, brush the soil from its root system, and open the roots.
Position the plant’s crown to sit well above the soil line and remain there after the soil settles.
Water once or twice a week during the first month; see more about watering tips in the growing section below.
Growing
Care Requirements
Agave plants are very hard and easy to care for; in fact, they probably thrive on neglect once the initial phase of growing them has started!
Having said that, optimal conditions still exist, of course, to encourage healthy and vibrant growth.
Light: Agave thrives in full sun but can tolerate some late afternoon shade.
Water: Water once a week during the hottest part of the summer and less often during cool seasons. Allow the soil to dry out by at least half between waterings.
Fertilizer: In spring, apply a light dose of balanced, granular, slow-release fertilizer, if desired. Note that fertilizer may encourage blooming, which will result in the plant’s demise.
Temperature and Humidity: These plants don’t like a lot of humidity, it’ll lead to crown rot. Nor do they like frost, so prefer to be grown in zones 8 or 9. If you plan on growing them outside these zones, make sure you overwinter them indoors.
Repotting
Repot every year or so to replenish the soil and enable root pruning. This is essential for maintaining a healthy plant and allowing it space to grow. Although agaves are shallow-rooted, the size of a container should complement the scale of the plant.
Each year, choose a pot slightly larger than the current one and always make sure it has plenty of drainage holes. To repot it, gently remove the agave plant from its container and shake off any excess soil from the roots (wear gloves—some of them have really spiky, sharp spines!).
Inspect the roots, trim any damaged or rotting roots, and then replant them in the new pot in a cactus mix. Water the plant sparingly over the first few days while it readjusts to its new environment, and place it in bright but indirect sunlight.
Propagating
Propagating these plants is a really straightforward process. They grow offsets, or ‘pups,’ around the base of the parent plant, and you’ll want to remove these to start new plants.
This is not only a really cheap way to start more plants, but it also prevents the mother plant from becoming overcrowded.
Again, you’ll need to wear gloves, as many species have thorns and spikes. Gently loosen the soil around the pup and carefully separate it from the main plant. You can either gently twist it, and it should come off easily, or use a sharp knife.
Let the pup dry out for a few days in a dark area; you should notice a callus forming. Once this happens, follow the instructions above for planting agave.
If you leave the container in a warm, bright indoor spot, new root growth should occur in 2 to 3 weeks.
If you’re planting agave outside, be warned - it spreads rapidly! If you want to keep them contained to a certain area, make sure you remove the pups and offshoots as soon as they start.
How to Get Agave to Bloom
Most people don’t want to know the answer to this question because agave only blooms once in its life, and that’s a sure sign that it is close to the end of its life.
When it enters its bloom, it lasts 3 or 4 months and is quite spectacular to see! It begins by sending a giant stalk upwards from the center of the plant, growing up to 20 feet tall. Some species can reach up to 35 feet tall!
All the way up the stem, flowers will bloom, and each one lasts a month or so. When the blooming finishes, the plant dies soon after. Now you know why no one really wants to encourage an agave plant to bloom!
However, just for the curious amongst you, giving plenty of fertilizer will encourage it to bloom early.
Types
Agave plants come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, each with its own unique characteristics. Some are small and compact, great for growing indoors; others are large and dramatic to make a bold statement in outdoor landscapes. Here are some of the most popular types to help you choose the right variety.
Agave americana ‘Variegata’: hardy in Zones 8 to 11; 5 to 8 feet tall, 10 to 15 feet wide; the name refers to the color of its blue-gray leaves, which have yellow edges in a rosette growth pattern; produces yellow-green flowers; pups emerge from the base.
Agave attenuata, aka foxtail agave: hardy in Zones 10 and 11; 2 to 3 feet tall, 3 to 6 feet wide; pale blue to yellow-green spineless leaves; the name refers to its arching stalk 10 or more feet long, on which form rosettes that eventually turn into thousands of yellow-green flowers.
Agave lophantha, ‘Quadricolor’: hardy in Zones 8 to 10; 12 to 18 inches tall, up to 2 feet wide; the name refers to the hues of its red-tooth leaves, which have dark green centers, pale green stripes, and yellow edges; in cold temperatures, leaves turn pink to red; produces yellow flowers; offsets can be taken in spring or autumn.
Agave ovatifolia, aka whale’s tongue agave: hardy in Zones 7 to 11; 3 to 4 feet tall, 4 to 6 feet wide; name describes the rosette of slightly cupped, powdery blue to gray leaves with small teeth; produces yellow-green flowers on 14-foot stalk after 10 years; reproduces by seed and bulbils.
Agave parryi, aka Parry’s agave: hardy in Zones 7 to 10; 1 to 3 feet tall, 1 to 3 feet wide; slate-gray/blue foliage forms a tight whirling rosette of toothed leaves; produces yellow flowers on 10- to 20-foot-tall stalks; offsets grow from the base.
Agave vilmoriniana, aka octopus agave: hardy in Zones 9 to 11; 3 to 4 feet tall, 5 to 6 feet wide; toothless, gray-green, undulating leaves resemble octopi tentacles; produces golden yellow flowers on 10- to 20-foot stalk; plantlets form along the bloom mast
Harvesting
Agave has a few different uses depending on the species. One of the most popular uses is to make agave syrup, a natural sweetener extracted from the core of the plant (the piña), then filtered and heated to break down the natural sugars into a syrupy liquid.
To do this, remove the outer leaves with a sharp knife, working your way to the central core. Once the core is exposed, you can cut it out and process it.
Some agave plants (Agave azul and Agave salmiana), are used to produce mezcal and other distilled liquors.
Gardening Products
Wit and Wisdom
The name “agave” comes from the Greek agavos, meaning “illustrious” or “admirable.”
American agave, A. americana, is one of the agave species sometimes known by the common name “century plant.” This misnomer stems from a previous (inaccurate) belief that the plant bloomed only after 100 years had passed.
Pests/Diseases
There aren’t that many issues that these hardy plants will struggle with.
If you overwater your agave or if the humidity is too high, you might have difficulties with anthracnose (unsightly lesions on the leaves and crown) and crown rot.
A couple of pests you should look out for include agave snout weevils and agave plant bugs (aka running bugs). Snout weevils can burrow into the center of the plant and lay eggs, which will cause the plant to collapse. You usually won’t spot this until it’s too late, so remove any infected plants as soon as you can to avoid them spreading to your healthy plants.
Other pests you might need to look out for are eriophyid mites and scale insects.
Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann