Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Sweet Corn
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Planting
The most common reasons for slow growth include poor light levels, not enough moisture, or a lack of nutrients. Plant in full sun (at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight). Soil needs to be consistently moist (though well-draining),as corn tends to suck up a lot of water. Corn is a hungry plant, so it’s important to enrich beds with lots of organic matter, such as garden compost (ideally in the fall).
When to Plant Corn
- Most gardeners sow corn directly in the garden soil (versus indoors) so that their sensitive roots aren’t disturbed when transplanting.
- Corn is very sensitive to frost; do not plant soil temperature is at least 60°F (16°C), or 65°F (18°C) for super-sweet varieties. Usually, this is 2 or 3 weeks after the last frost in spring. See our Planting Calendar for corn based on average frost dates.
- If you live in an area with a shorter growing season, choose an early variety that will mature well before the first fall frost. The ground can be warmed by a black plastic cover; sow seeds through holes in the plastic.
- A couple of weeks after planting your first round of corn, plant another round in order to extend the harvest.
How to Plant Corn
- To speed germination, moisten seeds, wrap them in moist paper towels, and store them in a plastic bag for 24 hours.
- Because corn is wind-pollinated, it’s essential to plant in a block, rather than a single row. For decent pollination, we recommend a modest block of, say, 10 to 50 plants. This maximizes the chances of the pollen released from the male tassels at the top of the plants drifting down into contact with the female silks lower down. Incomplete or inconsistent kernel development, with the cobs only partly or sporadically filled, is down to poor pollination. The silks protruding from the end of each cob are responsible for carrying the pollen down to the kernels. One strand connects to one kernel, so for complete fill, every strand of the silk must be pollinated.
- Sow seeds about 1½ to 2 inches deep and 12 inches apart in rows 2½ to 3 feet apart. Don’t plant too close together or you run the risk of disappointingly small cobs.
- You may choose to fertilize at planting time with a general purpose (10-10-10 fertilizer); corn is meant to grow rapidly.
- Water well at planting time.
Sowing Corn Indoors
If you’re going to start seeds early, sow the seeds in pots under the protection of a greenhouse, hoop house, or cold frame. This means you can begin sowing three to four weeks before your last frost date, giving you a head start on corn sown outdoors—a huge advantage for areas with shorter growing seasons.
Sow eight to ten seeds half an inch deep into four-inch-wide pots, or sow two seeds per module in a plug tray and remove the weakest of the two seedlings when they emerge. Keep the potting soil moist as they grow on.
Harden off the plants as your recommended planting time approaches by placing them outside for increasingly longer spells over the course of about a week. Plants should be at least six inches tall by the time they’re transplanted outdoors.
Check out this video for great tips on growing juicy corn:
Types of Sweet Corn
There are four main types of hybrid sweet corn: sugary (su), sugar-enhanced (se), shrunken (sh, sh2), and synergistic (sy). Each one contains a different level of sucrose, changing the flavor and texture of the corn.The type of corn will be listed right on the seed packet.
It’s important to be aware of which type of corn you’re growing—not only because of the sugar content, but also due to how easily the types can cross-pollinate. If the wrong combination of types cross-pollinates, the ears that are produced may be of subpar quality.
- Sugary (su) sweet corn is the classic sweet corn. Sugary varieties grow vigorously and are stress resistant. The kernels aren’t too sweet and are said to have a “traditional” taste. However, the sugars in sugary sweet corn quickly turn to starch after the ears are picked, so they need to be eaten right after picking. Do not plant near shrunken or synergistic types.
- Sugar-enhanced (se) sweet corn is slightly sweeter than sugary varieties. They keep their sweetness for a longer period of time after harvest (a few days) than sugary varieties. They grow well with few issues. Do not plant near shrunken types.
- Shrunken (sh, sh2) sweet corn—also called “supersweet”—are the sweetest varieties, containing two to three times more sugar than sugary varieties. The sugar in their kernels lasts even longer after harvest (up to a week) than the other types, but kernels tend to be more crunchy and not taste as “corny.” Shrunken types are also more finicky overall. Do not plant them near any other types; hybrid kernels turn out starchy and tough.
- Synergistic (sy) sweet corn combines sugar-enhanced with one of the other two types to create varieties that have the best of both worlds. Synergistic types tend to have very sweet, tender kernels with a good taste and some synergistic varieties can keep up to a week after harvest. Do not plant near sugary or shrunken types.
Recommended varieties include:
- ‘Argent’: sugar-enhanced variety, good taste. White kernels.
- ‘Iochief’: midseason, normal-sugar variety. Yellow kernels.
- ‘Luther Hill’: dwarf, normal-sugar variety. Produces 4- to 6-inch ears on 4- to 5-foot stalks. White kernels. Grow at least nine dwarf plants in a block of three or four rows.
- ‘Silver Queen’: normal-sugar variety. Resistant to some bacterial diseases. White kernels.
- ‘Sweet Sunshine’: supersweet variety. Disease resistant and high yield. Yellow kernels.
Corn can be a feast for the eyes, too! Look for these ornamental varieties:
- ‘Glass Gem’: Sporting multi-colored, semi-transparent kernels, this is a favorite for kids.
- ‘Painted Mountain’: Looking for the classic “maize” colors? This variety has a great diversity of natural tones. Check out our video to learn more about growing and using painted mountain corn.
Harvesting
- The warmer the air, the more quickly corn matures. It is usually ripe about 15 to 23 days after silking and sooner if temperatures are exceptionally high.
- When two ears grow on a stalk, the upper ear matures 1 to 2 days before the lower one.
- At harvest, ears should be rounded or blunt, not pointed, with tassels turning brown and kernels full and milky.
- To test, pull down some husk and pierce a kernel with a fingernail. If it’s white, or milky, it’s ready. The milk stage is brief; in hot weather (over 85°F/29°C), sweet corn is at peak for only 1 to 2 days, so check it frequently. Corn harvested a few days after milk stage will not be as sweet.
- Pull ears downward and twist to remove from stalk.
- Sweet corn varieties (except for supersweet varieties) lose their sweetness soon after harvest. Immediately after picking, prepare the ears for eating or preservation.
- Prepare for eating or preserving immediately after picking. Enjoy your harvested corncobs as soon as you can. The quicker they’re cooked, the sweeter they will be!
- If immature corn suffers a late-season frost, the plants and cobs can be damaged and result in the death of the plant or poor-tasting corn.
How to Store Corn
- Sweet corn freezes well, especially if removed from ears before freezing. Learn how to properly freeze corn.
- Corn can also be harvested for other purposes!
Cooking Notes
- If too much hot pepper or spice has been added to a soup or stew, adding a can of sweet corn can help.
- Popcorn is also a favorite snack if you have leftover kernels. Learn how to make homemade popcorn here.
Catherine Boeckmann
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When starting any plants off from seed why not use cardboard or paper containers such as paper cups (you can buy 50 or more new cups for only a few dollars). Place a few holes into the base of the cup or cardboard container for drainage. The container with the single seedling can then be planted directly into the ground without disturbing the roots. The cardboard or paper container will decompose into the soil adding nutrients back into the soil. You can clearly mark each cup or container directly onto the side with any information you need, Date, variety etc. Happy planting.
Thanks for the excellent growing tips for corn. I live in zone 7a and was surprised to see the planting times. I realize it's a guide but would stress to others that average soil temps should determine actual planting dates. I rarely plant corn before mid may. Last year with the sugar enhanced variety it was May 28th, which according to my log is the latest planting in 30 years of growing corn.
Starting earlier when the soil is cooler than optimal has no advantage and may have the opposite effect when the weather is cool and wetter than normal. Thanks again.
The basic information provided on sweet corn its verities and farming is enlightened indeed.
Thank you from Solomon Islands South Pacific Ocean.
My corn has extra large kernels. Wondering why?
Good question! We looked into a few educational resources and while few explain kernel size directly, they emphasize ear size on which, of course, the kernels form. So, from Purdue University:
Optimum growing conditions set the stage for maximum ear size potential and exceptional grain yields at harvest time.
(and) Kernel number (ear length) is strongly affected by environmental stresses. This means that potential ear length will vary dramatically from year to year as growing conditions vary. Severe stress can greatly reduce potential kernel number per row. Conversely, excellent growing conditions can encourage unusually high potential kernel number.
See more here https://www.agry.purdue.edu/ext/corn/news/timeless/EarSize.html
Hope this helps–
When you say brown....could that mean dark maroon? Or is my corn Almost ready for harvest? It's be 83 days. The cobs don't appear to be very big. I'm in zone 8a and my stalks are in a raised garden bed.
On the coast of Maine, it is quite common for people to start corn indoors. Mine are usually 4-6 inches tall when I put them in the garden and they never skip a beat. I use an open pollinated golden bantam called Ashworth. It has a lovely corn flavor but needs to be cooked immediately as the sugar gets starchy quickly.
As a first time corn grower "dent/flint" for use as corn meal. Why is aflatoxin not mentioned in this article.
We simply don’t know everything! Thank you for bringing this to our attention. Aflatoxin is a naturally occuring fungus that appears on many types of organic material, including grains, nuts, and decaying vegetation. Certain conditions, usually high heat and high humidity cause it to thrive. You can read more here https://extension2.missouri.edu/g4155 and here https://www.douglas.k-state.edu/docs/cropsandlivestock/cropsandlivestock-library/Aflatoxin_Iowa_State.pdf
My husband and I have grown corn for over 5 years now, and we always miss a few ears of corn that end up overwintering in our garden. Without fail, each year in the springtime, the corn kernels on the ears of corn that overwintered begin to grow plants of their own. The plants begin growing much earlier than what we would normally plant our own corn, and the plants seem to be much healthier (thicker stalks, greener leaves, etc.). My question is this: Have you ever heard of farmers planting corn kernels in the late fall/early winter for a crop the following summer? Given what you know of corn, do you think there is merit to planting in this manner?
