Yes, the black papery husks contain the seeds. (Seeds of certain amaryllis varieties will be sterile.) If you plant viable seed, they may not produce a plant the looks like the momma plant. Usually, amaryllis is propagated by offsets or cuttings, to maintain the same characteristics. But if you’d like to try planting the seeds, here are some guidelines:
Although eliminating the seed pods before they mature can help reserve energy in the plant for more flowers, you can let a seed pod mature, which takes about 4 or 5 weeks if the flower is pollinated (you can do this by hand, using a brush to transfer pollen from the stamen of one amaryllis to the pistil of another one; each plant can self-pollinate, but you might have less satisfactory results).
When the pods turn yellow-brown and split open, harvest the black, papery seeds inside. Spread them out to dry for a day or so, and then sow them in flats, with the seeds on their edge (just a bit poking above the medium), in well-draining, moist, seed-starting mix, covering them very lightly. Cover the flat with clear plastic or glass to maintain humidity and place in part shade; soil should be about 70 to 75 degrees F. (Some gardeners germinate the seeds by floating them in water; when they form roots, plant them in seed-starting mix.)
Alternatively, if weather is warm, you can sow seeds outside in part shade; thin to 2 to 3 inches apart when seedlings emerge; keep soil lightly moist.
When the seeds germinate (in 4 or so weeks), gradually give the seedlings more light until eventually they are in full sun. Transplant each seedling to a larger (3-inch) pot with light potting soil when the second set of leaves forms and roots develop. Fertilize with half-strength, balanced liquid fertilizer solution every other week. Water to keep moist but not wet. Plant out in one year. The plants will mature and flower in 2 to 5 years, on average.
Yes, the black papery husks contain the seeds. (Seeds of certain amaryllis varieties will be sterile.) If you plant viable seed, they may not produce a plant the looks like the momma plant. Usually, amaryllis is propagated by offsets or cuttings, to maintain the same characteristics. But if you’d like to try planting the seeds, here are some guidelines:
Although eliminating the seed pods before they mature can help reserve energy in the plant for more flowers, you can let a seed pod mature, which takes about 4 or 5 weeks if the flower is pollinated (you can do this by hand, using a brush to transfer pollen from the stamen of one amaryllis to the pistil of another one; each plant can self-pollinate, but you might have less satisfactory results).
When the pods turn yellow-brown and split open, harvest the black, papery seeds inside. Spread them out to dry for a day or so, and then sow them in flats, with the seeds on their edge (just a bit poking above the medium), in well-draining, moist, seed-starting mix, covering them very lightly. Cover the flat with clear plastic or glass to maintain humidity and place in part shade; soil should be about 70 to 75 degrees F. (Some gardeners germinate the seeds by floating them in water; when they form roots, plant them in seed-starting mix.)
Alternatively, if weather is warm, you can sow seeds outside in part shade; thin to 2 to 3 inches apart when seedlings emerge; keep soil lightly moist.
When the seeds germinate (in 4 or so weeks), gradually give the seedlings more light until eventually they are in full sun. Transplant each seedling to a larger (3-inch) pot with light potting soil when the second set of leaves forms and roots develop. Fertilize with half-strength, balanced liquid fertilizer solution every other week. Water to keep moist but not wet. Plant out in one year. The plants will mature and flower in 2 to 5 years, on average.